Clos de la Roche cuvee Vieille Vignes 2008 Domaine Ponsot

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Robert Parker (95)

Violet, peony, and decadent lily render the Ponsot 2008 Clos de La Roche Cuvee Vieilles Vignes even more intriguingly floral than its Clos St.-Denis counterpart, and the same goes for the wine’s subtly gamy aura. At the same time, clean red meat juices; brown spice-tinged fresh plum and blackberry juices; and chalky as well as stony underlying elements combine for a profound sense of layering, culminating in a finish of prodigious reach that tugs relentlessly at my salivary glands. Here is one of those exhibitions of richness with vivacity, bright penetration with textural refinement that is almost uniquely possible with the very best Burgundy Pinots of its unusual vintage. (Even Ponsot’s profusely and dramatically floral all-Aligote 2008 Mont Luisants blanc has nothing in the department of blossoms on this Clos de la Roche!) Look for a quarter-century’s worth of profound experiences if you are wealthy, lucky, and young enough for at admonition to apply.

BOW (9)