Blanc de Noirs Les Maillons Extra Brut 2019 Ulysse Collin

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Robert Parker (97)

Based on the 2019 vintage, complemented by fully 50% reserve wines, Collin's NV Extra-Brut Blanc de Noirs Les Maillons (2019) is one of the best renditions of this bottling that he has produced to date. Unfurling in the glass with aromas of mirabelle and other stone fruit mingled with ornate zest, warm spices and praline, it's full-bodied, deep and concentrated, with a layered core of fruit that's framed by an abundance of chalky structuring extract. This is often the most open, immediate wine in the range, but the 2019 base is more than usually tightly wound out of the gates, showing huge promise for the cellar. Perhaps that's why Collin has decided to hold back 10,000 bottles for later disgorgement, after 48 months of aging on lees before.