Bonnes Mares 2007 Jacques-Frédéric Mugnier

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Robert Parker (91)

A concentration of wild tiny berries red and black seems to inform the nose and palate of Mugnier’s 2007 Bonnes Mares, with pungent brown spices, medicinal herbal concentrates, and game adding site-typical complexity. The compactness here seems to mirror the wine’s flavor concentration, and an underlying note of crushed stone lends a hint of austerity in the long, bittersweet finish. All in all, this is hardly a typical representative of its vintage, and I am willing to believe that its relatively unevolved but impressive personality presages a decade or more of fascinating potential.