Gevrey Chambertin 2006 Georges Mugneret

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Robert Parker (88)

From their young vines in Ruchottes, the Mugnerets' 2006 Gevrey-Chambertin is expected to be their last wine of that name, as they have upgraded to "Gevrey 1er cru" in 2007, in keeping with their assessment of progress as the vines mature. Smoked meat, caramel, vanilla, and cherry jam fill the nose and palate, where a welcome juicy freshness and tart edge prevent this from becoming too simply sweet. Still, it strikes me as still being a bit slight, in particular for its barrel treatment, although it is certainly long and satisfying.