Beaune Clos des Mouches Blanc 2013 Drouhin, Joseph

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Robert Parker (93)

The 2013 Beaune 1er Cru Clos des Mouches was picked October 1-10, whole-cluster fruit and matured for 11 months in oak, bottled in September 2015 (incidentally, it be will packed in threes because of the small crop.) The nose is well defined, but it takes a little while to find its voice, eventually revealing white peach, wax resin and hints of white pepper. The palate is well balanced, understated at first, but then fanning out beautifully on the mid-palate with white pepper and shaved ginger rendering the finish lively and long in the mouth. It is remarkable that such a great white Burgundy has been produced in such a devastated vineyard. Victory clutched from the hands of defeat.