Bourgogne Blanc 2007 Domaine Leflaive

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Robert Parker (87)

From property acquired in time for the 2004 harvest (which was then almost entirely lost to hail in that inaugural vintage) Leflaive’s 2007 Macon-Verze displays an unusually rich, low-toned and piquant nuttiness for a Macon, along with fresh apple fruit, a soothing texture, and an attractive sense of lift. While simple, it will offer a lot of satisfaction over the next couple of years. Departing from the script of most vignerons I visited, Leflaive cellar master Eric Remy (who took over last year from Pierre Morey, with whom he has worked for several years) claimed his 2007 fruit – which he began picking September 1 – harbored a 2:1 ratio of tartaric to malic acidity (whereas, he adds, it was close to reversed in 2007). While some crop was lost to hail – particularly in Chevalier-Montrachet – Remy did not think this affected quality, and he had the same attitude toward mildew (combated here with biodynamic methods), which he said did not compromise the fruit. Alcohol levels largely hover below 14%, that is to say lower – regardless of cru – than any of the 2006s.