Puligny Montrachet 1er Cru les Referts 2007 Arnaud Ente

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Robert Parker (94)

Salt, browned butter, and malt lend Ente’s 2007 Puligny-Montrachet Referts a dark savor that – like its rich peachiness of fruit – seems to reflect the literal warmth of this site. Citricity (in the guise of fresh grapefruit and lime) and stony, chalky minerality are present here too, as in Ente's other 2007s, but now with a scintillating, shimmering interaction of elements such as characterizes so many of the best wines of this vintage. This finishes with not only the vigor of an elegant mineral-fruit dynamic, but with a memorably bitter-sweet cling of liquid floral perfume, citrus oils, and smoke. This sort of resonant intensity in a wine of such modest alcohol is in itself noteworthy, not to mention the depths of complexity on exhibit here. I would expect it to be worth following for at least a decade.