Glengyle Kilkerran Work in Progress 7th release 46% NV

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Serge Valentin (86)

Colour: full gold, so rather darker than Batch 6.

Nose: adios struck matches, bye-bye cabbage, and hello rocks, pebbles and sand! It’s kept the trademark sooty tones, but the rest is incomparably cleaner, more satisfying, and simply lovely. Orange cake, old musty cellar, bubblegum, marshmallows, old garage… I know, the combination sounds unlikely, but it’s not.

Mouth: almost perfect, with gingery bitter oranges, more mineral flavours, these kiwis, this leathery tea, the touches of tobacco and raisins (sweet pipe tobacco, when a little piece comes through the pipe), more oranges… Quality’s undoubtedly high.

Finish: quite long, sweet and creamy, tart, zesty, and yet pretty fat… This has substance. Peppery aftertaste, it even keeps playing with your lips.

Comments: work in progress indeed!