Glengyle Kilkerran Work in Progress 4th release 46% NV

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Serge Valentin (88)

Issued before they started to separate ‘bourbon’ and ‘sherry’ versions. Colour: white wine. Nose: blend kiwi and gooseberry juices, and then mature in clay (old Roman or Greek amphoras would do the trick). Season with a wee slice of Pirelli P-Zero, some iron filings, perhaps a little basalt powder, and presto, you have this little Kilkerran. Mouth: do the same, but add also some black pepper, some soot, and perhaps a smidgen of pili-pili chilli, African style. Almost forgot to mention grapefruit juice. And perhaps fresh walnut skins. Good, rather oily body. Finish: long, a little harsh, perhaps but some hints of fennel and more grapefruit save it. Comments: this batch was still a little rough and raw, and the pepper and chilli a notch too loud, perhaps, but it’s characterful spirit. I find it also rather funny to see how it echoes its remote cousin – not a business cousin mind you, new Benromach. Already very potent and assertive!