blueberry, cranberry and pomegranate fruit and wafts of dried violet and tangerine peel. The medium-bodied palate is surprisingly concentrated with ripe, fragrant fruit. It has a grainy, refreshing frame and a long finish loaded with floral perfume. So expressive!
BOW (8.75)
Jancis Robinson (17)
They could label this Sonoma Coast but stick with their original AVA. ‘We’re a Russian River Valley producer though we’ve moved west recently. Nowadays people follow the producer not the appellation’, according to Andy Smith, winemaker. This vineyard is just next to their Estate Chardonnay vineyard planted in 2004 with as high a density as 9,000 Calera, Swan and a few Pommard vines per hectare on sandy clay. Undulating east-facing land in which three one-acre parcels produce the most interesting wine and this wine has been a blend of those right from the start. The blend usually constitutes 20 barrels of the potential 60. The rest goes into their Highland Divide blend and the Russian River Valley they make for restaurants. 30% new oak. pH 3.5. ‘I’m paranoid about brett’, says Smith, ‘so I need to add SO2 early. Post malo at the end of December and then again in April and then on 1 August and then at bottling.’
Very juicy and refined. Silky and powerful but refreshing too. Lots of pure fruit. Very fresh and convincing.
