Cotes du Roussillon Villages Hugo 2010 Thunevin-Calvet

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Robert Parker (90)

The Thunevin-Calvet 2010 Cotes du Roussillon Villages Hugo – as usual, around equal parts Grenache, Carignan from Lesquerde granite and Syrah – was vinified in foudre, demi-muid, and (for the Syrah) barriques, the latter now from Stephane Chassin. “I’d rather take my inspiration from Burgundy than Bordeaux,” he remarks, without apparent irony given his famous Bordelaise partner. The firm tannins here are underscored by the wood, but it does not get in the way of a torrent of primary juiciness from ripe blackberry and cherry, and the hint of caramelized resin is well-enough integrated. This is a wine of enormous grip without girth, its berries mingled with blond tobacco, smoky black tea, tar, and salt. I would give it at least a couple of years in bottle and anticipate its being worth savoring through at least 2022.

BOW (8)