Longmorn 30 Years Old Silver Seal Wildlife Collection Cask:3212 56.3% 1984

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Serge Valentin (89)

There’s a wonderful panther on the label. Unless that’s a leopard. Or a cheetah. Let’s just hope this incredibly pale sherry-matured old Longmorn doesn’t bite (diving to even lower lows, S.)

Colour: white wine.

Nose: no sherry, or very, very little, rather a full-bodied mineral and citrusy malt that offers fresh almonds, putty, perhaps a few mushrooms, and then a little chalk and saltpetre, plus various breads. In truth, the age doesn’t show at all. With water: 30 years old porridge! It’s amazing ho close we are to barley, and yet this is fully mature. Only time in action.

Mouth (neat): the wonders of refill at great age showcased once again. Exceptionally oily mouth feel, bitter oranges, sunflower oil, green tea, not too ripe bitter oranges, Seville-style (I stole one from a tree last year while down there, and tried to eat it. It served me right), grape and orange pips, green walnuts… You got it, this is splendidly bitter. With water: a totally naked barleyness. Good, it does become a little too austere, to be honest.

Finish: medium, with a feeling of… green tomatoes?

Comments: any true whisky lover should try this style of old whisky. You’ll almost never see it at any owners’, the last ones having been some of Diageo/UDV’s Rare Malts. A glorious series, bitterly missed.