Craigduff 45 Years Old Signatory 30th Anniversary Cask 2518 45.4% 1973

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Serge Valentin (91)

What a coup once again!

Colour: full gold.

Nose: nada peat, niente, nichts, rien, nothing. On the contrary, we’re facing an exceptional fruity combination, shock full of mango jam, banana compote, overripe apples of all kinds, and various honeys. Then custard and maple syrup, Jaffa cakes (very obvious, and growing), Danish pastries, and a wee glass of Yquem 1988 (pushing things a bit, I must confess). Sultanas in homemade vanilla custard. Very lovely nose, very elegant. And I’m afraid it reminds me a bit of some old Strathislas, which does not mean anything at this point. No smoke.

Mouth: I could convince myself that I’m finding a little peat, although that would be a ‘transmuted’ smokiness, rather towards herbal teas than the usual passion fruits. Notes of Turkish delights, light chutneys, mirabelles, then really a lot of acacia honey. What’s really amazing is how fresh it remained, after forty-five years in wood. Never listen to those false noses who claim that malt always goes into a decline after 30 (or 35, or 40, or 45) years in wood! There’s also a touch of camphor, or eucalyptus pastilles, which may well come from the wood. From the peat? Doubt it.

Finish: medium, and rather superb, very honeyed again, with notes of lime-blossom tea. Indeed, Yquem 1988 (cut that, please).

Comments: and yet another 30th anniversary bottling by SigV that’s nothing short of impressive. Could we now have a 31st Anniversary series?

BOW (91)