Benriach Gordon & MacPhail Connoisseurs Choice 46% 1997

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Serge Valentin (83)

This for number crunchers, this baby was bottled on March 20, 2014. Colour: white wine. Nose: it’s a rather lovely, all-natural malty Speysider, with good custard, good overripe fruits, good hay, and good early grey tea. In other words, malt whisky as nature intended. Well, not too sure about that part. Mouth: shortbread, orange juice, barley water, a touch of oak, with some white pepper and nutmeg, and perhaps cornflakes. A style that’s perhaps a little more ‘midlands’ than ‘Speyside’, going towards, say Aberfeldy. Finish: medium, a little more honeyed, but the background remains a little peppery. Malty aftertaste, with a creamy vanilla. Comments: I find this really good, and pretty average in the best sense of that word. Also reminds of some contemporary Glenlivets.