Phil & Simon Thompson 38 Years Old Blended Scotch Whisky 44.9% 1980

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Serge Valentin (92)

Rather bizarrely, this one was 'blended into butts' in 2007. I do not know if this is ex-Edrington stock indeed, but it could well be one of those 'Ms' that have been liberated in recent years, all ranging from pretty good to very good (but never stellar) in my little book. Colour: deep gold. Nose: touches of varnish, then roasted nuts and burnt raisins, orange jam, balsa wood, a tiny drop of camphor essence, sugarcane juice, praline, turon, nougat, then parsley and lovage… It would surprise me that this would not be indie, ex-blending stock 'M'. Mouth: I do persist. Praline, caramel, tobacco, rum, tighter herbs (lovage again), marmalade, more nougat, both black and white, rum, maraschino (very typical)… The body is just perfect and the oak would just never get in the way. This deserves a decanter by Van Cleef or any other luxury brand, but then the price wouldn't be the same. Finish: long, extraordinary. Comments: I had thought that, whilst the nose was spectacular, it would then nosedive on the palate, as quite some sister casks already did. It did not, I was wrong (who said 'again', who?)

BOW (92)