Phil & Simon Thompson 19 Years Old Orkney 57.1% 1998

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Serge Valentin (90)

This is obviously Highland Park, since they’ve put Zulu warriors on the label. Oops, you’re right, Maasais. Remember ‘you move backward you’re dead, you move forward you’re dead, so why move backward?’ Let’s move forward, especially since there’s no sherry in sight this time… Colour: gold. Nose: the coastal and mineral side comes out more, citrus as well, coriander, lemongrass, flints, wax, beach sand, oysters, linseed oil… How greatly millimetric is this? With water: late harvest riesling and a wee bit of burnt tyre, perhaps. Mouth (neat): excellent, creamy, on liquorice, lime and lemon, menthol, spearmint, green pepper, paraffin and grape pips oil. Really lovely and right up my alley. With water: some sherry taste-alike, which is fun. Was it actually a sherry hogshead? Touch of leather and quite some pepper. Finish: long and peppery when reduced, fruitier and more mineral when not. Oh just drop water! Now the aftertaste will always be rather peppery. Comments: state of the art HP, rather high-keyed

BOW (90)