Cragganmore 25 Years Old Special Release 2014 51.4% 1988

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Serge Valentin (88)

Colour: pale gold.

Nose: apricots, vanilla, dandelions and honey. The style isn’t far from that of the older 12, but of course this one has more oomph and probably more depth. More crème au beurre and tarte tatin (how French is that?), then oranges and a touch of liquorice and eucalyptus (drops of cough syrup). Notes of new American oak are far away, but you don’t feel them as such. Good. With water: not much changes, maybe a little more fresh sawdust?

Mouth (neat): orangeade with ginger, vanilla and honey. Then mirabelles and apricots, probably figs, and a wee feeling of Turkish delights. The oaky side’s a notch more obvious now (fresh tannins, white pepper). With water: excellent! Plenty of yellow fruits (apricots, plums, peaches, pears) with a little maple syrup, custard honey, and one mint leaf. You feel the oak, but it’s almost an asset in this context.

Finish: of medium length, fresh, clean, fruity and honeyed. No oaky aftertaste, hurray!

Comments: we aren’t very far from the very excellent official 29 yo from… wait, oh no, ten years ago!