Clynelish 1997 The Highland Mariner Wemyss Malt 46% 1997

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Serge Valentin (88)

Colour: straw. Nose: it’s always great to check the differences between an old, possibly ‘worm-coiled’ malt and a contemporary counterpart. Remember Clynelish’s stills are replicas of Brora’s. In this case, there’s all this fruity wax that’s a little louder than in the old 5, and much less mineral and phenolic notes. Kumquats and citrons, a little moss, sea spray (for that mariner), and a good deal of coal smoke. Mouth: the filliation remains obvious, although once again, this is brighter, rather easier, and fruitier. Citrons, grapefruits, a touch of salt, a piece of smoked fish, and quite some lemon. Textbook 1997 Clynelish at an easy strength. Finish: good length, more herbal, otherwise very Clynelishy, that is to say waxy. Apples. Comments: as good as it gets.