Auchentoshan Auchentoshan 1998 Wemyss Malts Tarte Au Citron Distilled: 1998 Bottled; 2013 1 Of 342 Bottles 46% 1998

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Serge Valentin (79)

This should be uebersweet. Colour: straw.

Nose: not uebersweet but rather fresh and clean, with a very light style. Marshmallows everywhere, then bags of gooseberries and drops of barley water. So, tarte au citron? Maybe, or rather lemon-flavoured fudge, perhaps. Nice, ultra-clean nose. There are even touches of roots, always welcome in my book.

Mouth: starts very sweet and fruity (thank you Haribo), but gets then rather grassier and, indeed, more lemony. There’s even a lot of lemon grass, lime and some kind of sweet pastries. Danish? Again, a fine dram.

Finish: long and much grassier and spicier, surprisingly, with quite some pepper and tea tannins in the aftertaste.

Comments: as I wrote, it’s very fine, but I think I liked Wemyss’ earlier 1998s better (Lemon Sorbet and Candied Fruits).