Port Ellen 1974 Spirit of Scotland 40% 1974

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Serge Valentin (91)

Like Jas. Gordon, Spirit of Scotland was a brand used by Gordon & MacPhail in certain markets where differentiating from the main label was likely driven by purely commercial reasons. In any case, we have never noticed any significant difference in terms of quality. Colour: pale gold. Nose: a more direct style, perhaps narrower but also more compact and cohesive, with increased notes of lemon, chalk, and iodine, as well as a distinctly more medicinal character, featuring bandages and mercurochrome… It is quite magnificent, and one cannot help but think of the neighbouring distillery just to the east. And no, we are not yet speaking of the new Portintruan distillery - yet. In any case, there is superb tension in this nose. Mouth: as with the 1969, the low strength is hardly noticeable, entirely offset by a nervy distillate that even hints at manzanilla, with pronounced chalky, saline, and fresh walnut tones. It remains very clean, despite a wave of ashes and burnt matter arriving in force. Finish: almost long, slightly vinegary and distinctly lemony, fiercely tarry, saline, and still medicinal. Plenty of green pepper, ashes, and brine linger in the aftertaste. Comments: we have friends who enjoy these Port Ellens as mizuwari, and I can confirm they handle this treatment beautifully. I mean the malts, of course.