Port Ellen 1974 Gordon & MacPhail Connoisseurs Choice 40% 1974

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Serge Valentin (91)

Colour: pale gold.

Nose: a rather elegant and refined start, with a beautiful waxiness and quite some rubbed orange skin and lamp oil. Notes of caramel crème. Gets then quite maritime, on oysters (fat Loch Gruinart oysters, says Olivier), seashells, kelp… And then superbly fruity, with orange marmalade, boxed papayas, even avocados… Yes, just superb, even if not exactly oomphy. Full class.

Mouth: an excellent attack that shows that 40% can be alright as long as the malt has got something in the pants. Indeed, this one fires on all cylinders: peat, smoke, chocolate, fruits (passion?), honey (chestnut)… And then the expected marzipan, something tarry, smoked tea, candied oranges… Lots of pleasure indeed and a rather long, waxy finish with something salty and slightly rough and drying. Not too far from perfection.