Laphroaig 21 Years Old The Perfect Dram 53.1% 1989

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Serge Valentin (92)

olour: gold. Nose: yeah! A rather expressive, superbly grassy and
maybe more complex than usual Laphroaig, with more herbal notes than
usual. I get olive oil, brine and even and capers at first nosing, just
before it all gets more ‘traditional’, with some moderate medicinal and
coastal notes and quite some hot ashes (charcoal, BBQ). Quite some apple
peelings. Marzipan. Globally rather different from other Laphroaigs.
Also hints of manure. With water: it’s the mint that comes to the
front, together with some unexpected notes of Demerara sugar. Bacon.
Fab. Mouth (neat): perfect, just perfect. Very punchy, superbly citrusy
and herbal, tarry, very smoky, briney, almondy… Great Laphroaig when
undiluted, simply very classy, everything the name Laphroaig should
stand for. I love the notes of salted tangerines (have to try that!)
With water: more of the same. And salted cough syrup? Finish: very long,
peppery, peaty, herbal. Comments: great. It hasn’t got too much of the
fruitiness of some older Laphroaigs, which makes it maybe a little
austere, but it is a great one. Only the finish is a tad less exciting.

BOW (92)