Lagavulin 12 Years Old 15th Release 2015 56.8% NV

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Serge Valentin (92)

Integrally ex-refill American oak. Who would be against that. This baby’s a hit everywhere every year, including at WF Towerz.

Colour: white wine.

Nose: we’re extremely close to Lg5, this official’s just got a little more malty/coffeeish notes, as if the wood was a notch more active, and a peatiness that’s a little more leathery/tarry, so a little heavier and less bright and lively. But the whole remains a bright and lively Lagavulin. Love these notes of earthy pear pie. Beach sand. With water: just more proof that Lagavulin Distillery and its people are doing the greatest job. What a pure, yet fat, yet bright, yet heavy, yet elegant smoky spirit. What I especially like at Lagavulin is the fact that it’s not only about peat. Mouth (neat): exactly the same feeling. A tad fatter and oilier. Barbecued marshmallows and sausages grilled over a bonfire. Ah, our boy scout days… Love this. Less wood, more spirit, that’s our motto. With water: what? Can you smoke and salt multi-vitamin fruit juice? And add chamomile, eucalyptus tea, and bits of bacon and kipper?

Finish: long and warming, but remaining fresh, which is quite an achievement. Liquorice allsorts in the aftertaste, which reminds us of what Wise Pinkie MacArthur always says, ‘Lagavulin is sweet’. Also a little new oak, bizarrely. Pencil shavings. That can’t be!

Comments: Lagavulin’s annual 12 is like Sticky Fingers, everyone should have it in his stash. And I like it just as much as the new Port Ellen ’83.