Phil & Simon Thompson 9 Years Old Sutherland 56.5% 2010

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Serge Valentin (87)

What’s good with all these hidden names is that whisky beginners will learn their Scottish geography much faster than we did when we first realised that it wasn’t all only about Johnnie Walker and Chivas Regal. Colour: white wine. Nose: still a bit hot-from-the-stills, that is to say rather on barley eau-de-vie, but that’s absolutely not a flaw, even if these recent batches seem to be a little less waxy than earlier makes. Sweet bread, focaccia, sea salt, a touch of rubber (bands, at school), pizza dough and olive oil, granny smith and green pears (the name escapes me, the ones they use for making Calvados). Rubber bands leading the dancing. With water: flour and grist, as in many young malts. Mouth (neat): oh extremely good, sharp and precise, a bit hot again (young), but very well-carved, on green fruits and waxy/rubbery elements. With water: yes, there, ah-ha, a little more wax, marmalade, and a wee feeling of ‘blanche’ (unaged hence white armagnac). Finish: is it normal to find green bananas in your Clynelish? What was going on in the kitchen? Pear scones in the aftertaste. Comments: seriously, the quality/age ratio is pretty huge here.