Graciano 2019 The Third Twin

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Robert Parker (98)

The Spanish variety Graciano is relatively rare in California, and this 2019 Graciano comes from just 1.33 acres planted in 2011 in pure sand in The Third Twin estate vineyard. It was still in barrel when I tasted it on May 24, 2022, due to be bottled shortly thereafter, in June 2022. If there is such a thing as an archetypal Californian Graciano, this 2019 has got to be it—it's a kaleidoscope of hedonistic fruit and spice. Blended with small amounts of Petite Sirah and Syrah, it was made with 32% whole clusters and matured for about 32 months in 57% new French oak. Opaque purple-black in color, it explodes with scents of boysenberry and blueberry, violets, coffee beans, tar, sage and thyme, shifting continually as it airs in the glass. The palate offers that rare combination of concentration and weightlessness thanks to its notably juicy acidity and silky texture, and it boasts a tremendously persistent, layered finish. "I feel like Graciano is more akin to Grenache," Krankl notes. "It ripens late, and it has to be very ripe or it's not interesting at all. But it has good acidity, even if you harvest it late." Just 74 cases will be released in the spring of 2023.

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