Old Mountain Dulce 2005 Telmo Rodriguez

Professionelle Bewertungen

Robert Parker (96)

Every now and then Telmo Rodriguez produces a wine that is aged for an exceptionally long time in barrel, over eight years, as it's the case here (to be honest they only did something similar in 1997, but every year they do an unusual barrel, and they will release whatever pleases them). The 2005 Old Mountain is produced with Moscatel grapes from their own vineyards in the slopes of the M?laga mountains where the soils are stony and chalky with a fine texture from schist. Their vineyards are organically worked. The grapes are harvested quite late and dried for seven days (not a scientific figure, more approximate) under the sun. The wine then ferments with indigenous yeasts in 225-liter French oak barrels. The wine has 12.5% alcohol and 210 grams of residual sugar; less alcohol and more sugar. It's an extreme wine, with a nose showing great complexity, high volatility and aromas of beeswax and honey, Moscatel raisins and balsamic notes that are ever-changing in the glass. The explosive palate is very concentrated but at the same time light, very sweet but fresh, intense, incredibly long and persistent. What is remarkable is that he wine is not heavy, in fact it's deceptively easy to drink and the small bottle is emptied in no time. The extended elevage lasted seven years and eight months, after which only 515 375ml bottles were filled. This wine was produced from a specific terraced vineyard that they had detected produced wines with a different personality (east-facing and mixed with olive trees and prickly pears!). Shame about the quantities and price. As a curiosity, the bottles are sealed with wax from the bees at Remelluri, Rodriguez's family property in Rioja. The nicest-smelling capsule ever!

BOW (8.50)