Pinot Gris Clos Jebsal Trie Speciale Selection de Grains Nobles 2008 Zind Humbrecht

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Robert Parker (96)

Bottled in September of 2012, Zind-Humbrecht’s 2008 Pinot Gris Clos Jebsal Selection de Grains Nobles Trie Speciale manages to balance 450 grams of residual sugar and in Esszencia fashion not come-off as overly sweet but indeed as palate-quickening. In comparison with many a young Esszencia, though, it displays a remarkable degree of differentiation and interactive complexity, for which Olivier Humbrecht credits among other things the viscous libation’s long elevage. Apricot preserves, honey, and liquefied floral essences play against toasty hickory nut, cyanic fruit pit, and lemon juice. A head-shakingly long and involved finish caps this dynamic and near-weightless yet in another sense monumental vinous achievement that I would expect to endure past mid-century and along the way to deliver yet greater pleasure and food for thought. “We haven’t set out to do this wine every year,” notes Humbrecht of Trie Speciale – his term for S.G.N. over 200 Oechsle – “it just happened for five years running from 2006-2010.”